Custom tuning is a change to the program or “calibration” of an ECM (Engine Control Module), PCM (Powertrain Control Module), or TCM (Transmission Control Module).

Why would you want it? Well, it’s definitely going to improve your sex life.*

*Products and services will not improve your sex life.

Most people want custom tuning to increase torque and horsepower but there are other reasons. It’s all about you and your goals. Some customers are after looks and sound more than power. Maybe you want pops and bangs or an exhaust burble, or to remove the speed govenor.

Our goal is to make the vehicle run with the most power in the safest way but always based on how you are using it. This could be towing, racing, or changes for fuel efficiency in fleet vehicles.

Another reason you might want custom tuning is to unlock even more performance from and aftermarket parts you have already installed. Typical stuff would be a cold air intake systems or exhaust modifications like cat-back or downpipe systems, or long tube headers.

Lastly, when you add parts like larger camshafts, higher flowing cylinder heads, upgraded fuel injectors, superchargers, or turbochargers, tuning may be required before the vehicle to even start and run at all.

When we tune a vehicle, we may change dozens or even hundreds of settings in the engine computer. The usual suspects are to increase ignition timing, set air-fuel ratios for best power and economy, increase requested engine torque, decrease coolant temperature settings (for electric fans), change transmission shift patterns, and increase boost levels.

How is this safe? We have developed tune files on the dyno and in the street that have been proven on thousands of vehicles with the same engine and setup that you have.  We confirm the tune is working with datalogs on more advanced builds, and we collect detailed information about the vehicle before making the tune file. 

More advanced tunes (remote or at in person) will have a laptop or scanner connected to the vehicle’s OBD port to record air fuel ratios, ignition timing, knock or detonation, and many other parameters. Then we review the datalog to ensure the vehicle is doing what we programmed it to do. For example, if we command the air fuel ratio at 12.5:1 at high RPM, then we make sure the oxygen sensors read 12.5:1. (we actually tune in lambda but that’s another story). If we don’t get the 12.5:1 ratio that we set the computer to, then we keep making tune changes until we do.

Lastly, making sure your tune is safe is all about knowledge, experience and about having the right tools. We’ve invested heavily in training and equipment. The dyno is key, but we use other tools to make sure the engine is safe and healthy. Wideband O2 sensors, stand-alone engine knock monitors, exhaust gas temperature (EGT) probes, and good ol’ removal and “reading” of spark plugs are all part of the process.

The entire tuning process can take hours or days, depending on what has been done to the car. Most Stage 1 tunes (all stock parts or simple bolt-ons like a catback exhaust or cold air intake) can be done in about an hour. Many modern turbo vehicles can add 40-100+ HP and TQ with just a tune file and no other parts. This is by fat the best bang for your buck on getting more performance from your vehicle. 

We use special hardware and software to get the calibration, program or “tune” from the computer that runs your vehicle’s engine and (when possible) transmission onto a laptop. This is done by connecting a device between the laptop and the OBD (on board diagnostic) port of the vehicle. Do your own online research and you will find tuning devices from companies like HP Tuners, SCT, Diablo, as well as more advanced tools from companies like Alientech, Magic Motorsport, and Autotuner. We use these brands and many more. 

All of the hardware works the same way. It’s a plastic box with two cords. One cord is connected to the laptop and the other cord is plugged into OBD port, or physically plugged into the pins on the ecu while it is removed and on the bench.

The hardware acts as a translator to copy the tune from the vehicle’s computer onto a laptop computer. Companies like HP Tuners, SCT, EFI Live, etc. will encrypt the tune file from your vehicle so that it only works with their proprietary hardware and software. There is a fee charged to the tuner (and ultimately the vehicle owner) for each time they use the proprietary hardware or software on a different vehicle. We also have hardware from brands like Alientech, Magic Motorsports, and Autotuner that can read “raw” unencrypted tune files from vehicle computers. The raw unencrypted files are then edited with software like WinOLS or ECM Titanium. This is typical for tuning European and Asian vehicles.

But wait, there’s more! Occasionally we can’t use the OBD port to get the tune file. Many manufacturers have started to use encryption or tuning protection (TPROT) to prevent tuning. Sometimes these computers are described as being “locked”. It is a bit of a cat and mouse game, but eventually the aftermarket catches up and we learn how to bypass, remove, or unlock the computer so it can be tuned. In fact, check out our ECU Unlock services for Dodge, BMW, and more.

When we can’t read a tune file by OBD we remove the control module from the vehicle to read the calibration, and this is called boot or bench mode. It takes longer, requires some expensive hardware, and therefore costs more.

Once we have the tune file on our laptop the software becomes the star of the show. Software is key because it will define all of the tables and parameters available for us to change and adjust. This is how we increase power or fuel economy or get the results you are after. There are literally millions of parameters and settings in a modern (2000 and newer) fuel injected vehicle but typically only 50-1,000 tables and parameters are defined.

Thankfully the commercial companies like HP Tuners and SCT have already developed extensive definition files on most domestic vehicles (Ford, Chevy, Dodge). This is why we can offer many levels of modification for domestic vehicles. Asian and European vehicles are also supported, but sometimes the definition (or lack thereof) file limits our ability to tune a given vehicle when tables or settings we need are not defined or not available. A common example is pops and bangs. Lots of Euro car owners want it, and we can do most of them, but we don’t have a working and tested solution for each and every BMW, Mercedes, Audi, etc. 

So after reading the tune and applying the proper definition file we can get to work on changing the tune. We modify the settings of different tables, switches, and scalars to get the vehicle to do whatever it is you’re wanting us to do. A typical example would be to increase ignition timing advance, change commanded air fuel ratios, increase boost and raise driver demand or torque management tables at higher RPMs to increase the engine’s power output.  

The final step is to load the “tuned file” back onto the vehicle’s computer, plugin the laptop to record sensors and data from the engine, and test drive the vehicle to confirm expected results. If we don’t get the expected results we repeat the process and adjust the tune until we do get safe and expected results

The first tuning project was a 1991 Mazda Turbo II RX-7 that began with the installation of a Haltech E6K stand-alone engine management system back in 2000. We have been tuning commercially since 2018 and purchased a dyno in 2021. 

We offer extensive tuning services for 1996 and newer gas and diesel domestic V8 powered vehicles. The sky is the limit; full bolt-ons, headers, cylinder head upgrades, cam swaps, turbos, superchargers, nitrous, E-85, and more.

This includes the usual suspects like Camaros, Corvettes, V-series Cadillacs, Mustangs, Chargers, and Challengers. We also have you covered for trucks and SUVs as well.

We can tune your Escalade, Silverado, F-150, F-250, F-350, 2500, 3500, Tahoe, Yukon, Durango, Grand Cherokee, Ram, and Jeep, as well as anything with a Duramax, Cummins, or PowerStroke. 

For our owners of European and Asian vehicles we offer Stage 1 tuning and typically Stage 2 tuning for 2000 and newer vehicles with that run on gas or diesel. We have tuned numerous vehicles from BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Nissan, Infiniti, Toyota, and Lexus. 

Please don’t hesitate to call or email us about questions on your project. We have specialized hardware and software for nearly every make or model of vehicle that is 1996 or newer and uses fuel injection. 

We describe our tuning service in stages. 

Reflash tuning and Stage 1 tuning is meant for a stock vehicle or a vehicle with simple bolt-on modifications like an aftermarket intake filter and/or cat-back exhaust. 

Stage 2 and up are for vehicles with more modifications like camshaft upgrades, larger injectors, or power adders like turbos or superchargers. Keep reading to learn more about the different tuning options. 

Stage 1 and Reflash Tunes are usually completed in the same day. We will ask that you drop off your vehicle between 9:00 and 10:00 am and tell you to plan for pickup between 4:00 and 4:30. We do offer after hours dropoff and pickup. We will do everything we can to tell you in advance if we need more than 24 hours, but we can’t possibly know every problem or hurdle in advance. Sometimes life happens.

Stage 2 Tunes are completely custom and take more time. Expect 5-10 days to get everything done. We will keep you up to date along the way with lots of text messages and videos. It is also possible we find a problem (bad sensor, etc) that needs to be fixed before we can complete the tune. This usually means a return tuning session, so be prepared to need 2 or more sessions for completing your Stage 2+ builds. 

Head over to the  tune power database to see estimates on how much power a tune will add to your vehicle. Turbo vehicles usually see 50-100 hp and V8 cars and trucks usually see 20-30 hp. The database gives torque in newton meters (Nm). Multiply Nm by .73 to convert it to Ft-lb of torqrue. 

Generally, no. We are a distributor for the BullyDog devices that allow for switch on the fly tunes on some diesel trucks. The main reason to have switch on the fly is to change torque converter lockup settings for towing a heavy load. 

Besides changing the torque converter lockup, switch on the fly tunes are really more of a marketing gimmick. We can develop one tune file that gives max power when you floor it and max economy for cruise and highway driving. Your right foot is the switch. 

The Stage 1 for pretty much everyone, or at least anyone who considers themself to be an auto enthusiast. It is for anyone who wants to feel a difference in the way their vehicle drives. We can add power, torque, better throttle response, better transmission shifting, and improve fuel economy, all within the same tuned calibration. 

Have you have ever modified your car by adding a performance intake and/or exhaust, then had to convince yourself you noticed a difference? Or maybe you did notice a difference, but it was very small. We’ve been there. This is part of what started our tuning journey. 

Anyways, the experience and performance increase with a tune is NOT like the typical intake and exhaust mods; you will easily be able to tell a difference in how your vehicle runs and drives. Some turbocharged vehicles can gain 100+ HP with all stock parts and a Stage 1 tune.

By the way, a Stage 1 tune will always be the second highest return in HP per dollar spent.

Yes it does, but you should know that we do not purposefully hold back power on a Stage 1 tune so we can charge you more for the Stage 2 tune. We use stages to indicate the level of modifications. Higher stages have more mods and make more power. 

We offer different tune services to match various modification stages. In general, expect to pay about $400-500 for a Stage 1 Tune, and $500+ for stage 2 and higher. 

In general, no. If you have a check engine light, misfires, vacuum leaks, or any other mechanical or electrical issues those should be fixed before tuning.

If you have done an engine swap, installed headers, did a camshaft upgrade, or installed some type of power adder, then the vehicle may be running poorly. However, tuning still cannot fix bas sensors, or any other mechanical or electrical issue. Fix those first, then bring it to us for the rest. 

We have to DRIVE the vehicle, so everything needs to work and be safe. It needs to have tires with decent tread, an alignment, an exhaust, functioning brakes, blinkers, horn, a new battery that’s charged, s steering wheel, a seat, you know, all the stuff that makes a vehicle work and be safe.

Fill the tank with whatever octane gas you plan to use. We always recommend 93 octane for the most power; we can tune for 89 and 87, however the gains will be smaller.

No matter the stage, any vehicle getting a tune should be running and driving perfectly with no warning lights on the dash. A tune can’t fix mechanical problems. If you have warning lights, or if your vehicle is not running well, you will need to make repairs to your vehicle first, then bring it for a tune.

Every Stage 1 tune we provide has been developed on the dyno and tested on the street. You are buying a proven calibration that has been installed on thousands of vehicles with the same engine and transmission as yours. Most of our tunes have been developed in-house; some have been developed by one of our partners like SCT, Westers Garage, or from a file service like OLSX.

Either way, the Stage 1 tune is perfectly calibrated to your stock or nearly stock vehicle. Each file receives extensive testing in stop and go, highway, cruise, and wide-open throttle conditions. Expect more power, torque, improved sex life, more smiles, better throttle response, and better highway fuel economy.

Stage 2 and above are completely custom to your vehicle and your goals. We tune with wideband O2 sensors and stand-alone engine knock monitors to deliver the best possible outcome of power, safety, sound, reliability, and drivability.

For stage 2 and above we start with a “base” calibration and modify it through testing and datalogging on the dyno and in the street. We test your vehicle in real world driving conditions. The excitement of a big HP number doesn’t last when the vehicle dies at every stop light and won’t start in the morning when it is cold.

We work very hard to make sure all parts of the tune (like startup and sitting at a redlight) work together. Our goal with Stage 2 tune files is to calibrate the vehicle so the “little things” work like a stock vehicle. This means yes, you can have the big cam chop, but the vehicle still starts easily when cold or hot, transitions smoothly when coming into or off of the throttle, idles reliably, and does not stall at a red light, in the driveway, or when driving through a parking lot.