Custom tuning means to making changes to the program or “calibration” of an ECM (Engine Control Module), PCM (Powertrain Control Module), or TCM (Transmission Control Module). 

Why would you want it? Well, it’s definitely going to improve your sex life.*

*Products and services will not improve your sex life. 

Most people want custom tuning to increase torque and horsepower but there are other reasons. It’s all about you and your goals. Some customers are after looks and sound more than power. Maybe you want pops and bangs or an exhaust burble. 

Our goal is to make the vehicle run with the most power in the safest way but always based on how you are using it. This could be towing, racing, or changes for fuel efficiency in fleet vehicles.

Another reason you might want custom tuning is to unlock even more performance from and aftermarket parts you have already installed. Typical stuff would be a cold air intake systems or exhaust modifications like cat-back or downpipe systems, or long tube headers.

Lastly, when you add parts like larger camshafts, higher flowing cylinder heads, upgraded fuel injectors, superchargers, or turbochargers, tuning may be required before the vehicle to even start and run at all.

Trust us man, we got you!

But seriously, when we tune something, we will change dozens or even hundreds of settings in the engine computer. The usual suspects are to increase ignition timing, set air-fuel ratios for best power and economy, increase requested engine torque, decrease coolant temperature settings, change transmission shift patterns, and increase boost levels.

We make sure it is safe in a few ways. One way is to use tune files that have been proven on thousands of vehicles with the same engine and setup that you have. Check out our ready-made tune options here, many of which can be programmed in about an hour. 

For Stage 1 and higher tunes we will drive the vehicle on the road (street tuning) to make sure it’s doing what we expect it to do, and to make sure it doesn’t do annoying stuff like the engine dying every time you stop.

We also have a chassis dynamometer which, if you don’t know, is a super-dope machine that’s basically a treadmill for a car.  The dyno allows us to test at high speed and high RPM without having to worry about a conversation with the local police. 

A laptop or scanner is connected to the vehicle’s OBD port to record air fuel ratios, ignition timing, knock or detonation, and tons of other stuff. Then we look at the recording and make sure the vehicle is doing what we programmed it to do. For example, if we set the air fuel ratio at 12.5:1 then we make sure the oxygen sensors read 12.5:1. (we actually tune in lambda but that’s another story). If we don’t get the 12.5:1 ratio that we set the computer to, then we keep making tune changes until we do.

Lastly, making sure your tune is safe is all about knowledge, experience and about having the right tools. We’ve invested heavily in training and equipment. The dyno is key, but we use other tools to make sure the engine is safe and healthy. Wideband O2 sensors, stand-alone engine knock monitors, exhaust gas temperature (EGT) probes, and good ol’ removal and “reading” of spark plugs are all part of the process.

The entire tuning process can take hours or days, depending on what has been done to the car. We have some tunes that can be done in an hour. Check out the one-hour-tune options here. 

We use special hardware and software to get the calibration, program or “tune” from the computer that runs your vehicle’s engine and (when possible) transmission onto a laptop. This is done by connecting a device between the laptop and the OBD (on board diagnostic) port of the vehicle. Do your own online research and you will find tuning devices from companies like HP Tuners, SCT, and Diablo. We use these brands and many more. 

All of the hardware works the same way. It’s a plastic box with two cords. One cord is connected to the laptop and the other cord is plugged into OBD port. The hardware acts as a translator to copy the tune from the vehicle’s computer onto a laptop computer or sometimes the device itself (which is later transferred to the laptop). Companies like HP Tuners, SCT, EFI Live, etc. will encrypt the tune file from your vehicle so that it only works with their proprietary hardware and software. There is a fee charged to the tuner (and ultimately the vehicle owner) for each time they use the proprietary hardware or software on a different vehicle. We also have hardware from brands like Alientech, Magic Motorsports, and Bitbox that can read “raw” unencrypted tune files from vehicle computers. The raw unencrypted files are then edited with software like WinOLS or ECM Titanium. This is typical for tuning European and Asian vehicles.

But wait, there’s more! Occasionally we can’t use the OBD port to get the tune file. Many manufacturers have started to use encryption or tuning protection (TPROT) to prevent tuning. Sometimes these computers are described as being “locked”. It is a bit of a cat and mouse game, but eventually the aftermarket catches up and we learn how to bypass, remove, or unlock the computer so it can be tuned. In fact, check out our Dodge ECU Unlock service. When we can’t read a tune file by OBD we remove the control module from the vehicle to read the calibration, and this is called boot or bench mode. It takes longer, requires some really expensive hardware, and therefore costs more.

Once we have the tune file on our laptop the software becomes the star of the show. Software is key because it will define all of the tables and parameters available for us to change and adjust. This is how we increase power or fuel economy or get the results you are after. There are literally millions of parameters and settings in a modern (2000 and newer) fuel injected vehicle but typically only 50-1,000 tables and parameters are defined. Thankfully the commercial companies like HP Tuners and SCT have already developed extensive definition files on most domestic vehicles (Ford, Chevy, Dodge). This is why we can offer many levels of modification for domestic vehicles but only limited Stage 1 tunes for import vehicles. The definition (or lack thereof) file limits our ability to tune a given vehicle when tables or settings we need are not defined and not available.

After reading the tune and applying the proper definition file we can get to work on changing the tune. We modify the settings of different charts, tables, switches, and graphs to get the vehicle to do whatever it is you’re wanting us to do. A typical example would be to increase ignition timing advance, change commanded air fuel ratios, increase boost and raise driver demand or torque management tables at higher RPMs to increase the engine’s power output.  

The final step is to load the “tuned file” back onto the vehicle’s computer, plugin the laptop to record sensors and data from the engine, and test drive the vehicle to confirm expected results. If we don’t get the expected results we repeat the process and adjust the tune until we do get safe and expected results. 

The first tuning project was a 1991 Mazda Turbo II RX-7 that began with the installation of a Haltech E6K stand-alone engine management system back in 2000. We have been tuning commercially since 2018 and purchased a dyno in 2021. 

We offer extensive tuning services for 1996 and newer gas and diesel domestic V8 powered vehicles. The sky is the limit; full bolt-ons, headers, cylinder head upgrades, cam swaps, turbos, superchargers, nitrous, E-85, and more.

This includes the usual suspects like Camaros, Corvettes, V-series Cadillacs, Mustangs, Chargers, and Challengers. We also have you covered for trucks and SUVs as well.

We can tune your Escalade, Silverado, F-150, F-250, F-350, 2500, 3500, Tahoe, Yukon, Durango, Grand Cherokee, Ram, and Jeep, as well as anything with a Duramax, Cummins, or PowerStroke. 

For our owners of European and Asian vehicles we offer Stage 1 tuning and typically Stage 2 tuning for 2000 and newer vehicles with that run on gas or diesel. We have tuned numerous vehicles from BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Nissan, Infiniti, Toyota, and Lexus. 

Please don’t hesitate to call or email us about questions on your project. We have specialized hardware and software for nearly every make or model of vehicle that is 1996 or newer and uses fuel injection. 

We describe our tuning service in stages. 

Reflash tuning and Stage 1 tuning is meant for a stock vehicle or a vehicle with simple bolt-on modifications like an aftermarket intake filter and/or cat-back exhaust. 

Stage 2 and up are for vehicles with more modifications like camshaft upgrades, larger injectors, or power adders like turbos or superchargers. Keep reading to learn more about the different tuning options. 

Stage 1 and Reflash Tunes are usually completed in the same day. We will ask that you drop off your vehicle between 9:00 and 10:00 am and tell you to plan for pickup between 4:00 and 4:30. We do offer after hours dropoff and pickup. We will do everything we can to tell you in advance if we need more than 24 hours, but we can’t possibly know every problem or hurdle in advance. Sometimes life happens.

Stage 2 Tunes are completely custom and take more time. Expect 2-4 days to get everything done. We will keep you up to date along the way with lots of text messages and videos.

Stage 3 Tunes may take a week or more. We will keep you up to date along the way with lots of text messages and videos.

Head over to the  tune power database to see estimates on how much power a tune will add to your vehicle. Turbo vehicles usually see 50-100 hp and V8 cars and trucks usually see 20-30 hp. The database gives torque in newton meters (Nm). Multiply Nm by .73 to convert it to Ft-lb of torqrue. 

Pretty much everyone, or at least anyone who considers themself to be an auto enthusiast.

You are buying our already made tune without the added cost or hassle of learning or using special hardware or software. Bring us your vehicle and we will load everything for you.

Reflash tunes are also designed for anyone who has considered buying a mail order tune and/or a device from a company like SCT, EFI Live, HP Tuners, EZ Lynk, BullyDog, or any similar product. You are getting the same result without all of the hassle.

The reflash tune is perfect for stock vehicles or vehicles with simple bolt-ons like a cold air intake or a cat-back exhaust. A reflash is for anyone who wants to feel a difference in the way their vehicle drives. The tune will add power, torque, better throttle response, better transmission shifting, and improve fuel economy, all within the same tuned calibration. 

Have you have ever modified your car by adding a performance intake and/or exhaust, then had to convince yourself you noticed a difference? Or maybe you did notice a difference, but it was very small. We’ve been there. This is actually what started our tuning journey many years ago. 

Anyways, the experience and performance increase with a reflash tune is NOT like the typical intake and exhaust mods; you will easily be able to tell a difference in how your vehicle runs and drives. Some turbocharged vehicles can gain 100+ HP with all stock parts and a reflash tune.

Lastly, a reflash tune will always be highest return in HP per dollar spent. All tuning above a reflash or Stage 1 will require a much larger investment in time and money. 

We have no connection to Automotovist, but we do agree with the concept of HP per dollar, and this article explains the idea. It even has a calculator to help you determine what you’re paying for each HP added. 

If your vehicle is running poorly then you should not get a reflash tune, it will not help and it’s possible it might make it worse.

Ideally you would not have any check engine light, maintenance light, or really any kind of warning light before getting a reflash tune. Fix any issues before bringing us your vehicle for a reflash. 

If you have a check engine light because installed straight exhaust pipes or something similar, then a reflash tune is not for you. This will not help pass emissions. You need catalytic converters to be able to pass emissions in Georgia. Some people “slide through” because the testing station doesn’t do the visual inspection, but strictly speaking, catalytic converters are required and the testing station should fail any vehicle that doesn’t have them. 

Generally, no. We are a distributor for the BullyDog devices that allow for switch on the fly tunes on some diesel trucks. The main reason to have switch on the fly is to change torque converter lockup settings for towing a heavy load. 

Besides changing the torque converter lockup, switch on the fly tunes are really more of a marketing gimmick anyway. We can develop one tune file that gives max power when you floor it and max economy for cruise and highway driving. Your right foot is the switch. 

The Stage 1 will have a very similar result as the reflash tune service. tThis service is for anyone who wants a tune for a vehicle that we don’t have a reflash tune available for. With that in mind, everything else applies. 

The Stage 1 for pretty much everyone, or at least anyone who considers themself to be an auto enthusiast. It is for anyone who wants to feel a difference in the way their vehicle drives. We can add power, torque, better throttle response, better transmission shifting, and improve fuel economy, all within the same tuned calibration. 

Have you have ever modified your car by adding a performance intake and/or exhaust, then had to convince yourself you noticed a difference? Or maybe you did notice a difference, but it was very small. We’ve been there. This is actually what started our tuning journey many years ago. 

Anyways, the experience and performance increase with a tune is NOT like the typical intake and exhaust mods; you will easily be able to tell a difference in how your vehicle runs and drives. Some turbocharged vehicles can gain 100+ HP with all stock parts and a Stage 1 tune.

By the way, a Stage 1 tune will always be the second highest return in HP per dollar spent (reflash tune is best deal on HP per dollar). Everything after Stage 1 takes more time and costs more money.

We have no connection to Automotovist, but we do agree with the concept of HP per dollar, and this article explains the idea. It even has a calculator to help you determine what you’re paying for each HP added.  

Yes it does, but you should know that we do not purposefully hold back power on a Stage 1 tune so we can charge you more for the Stage 2 tune. We use stages to indicate the level of modifications. Higher stages have more mods and make more power. 

We offer different tune services to match various modification stages. In general, expect to pay about $500 for a reflash Tune, $650 for a Stage 1 Tune, and $1,000+ for stage 2 and higher. 

Be sure to head over to the shop to see our performance packages for popular makes and models. These are full-service turnkey packages that include all parts, tuning, and labor. 

It’s April of 2024 right now and we are just starting to build out the shop page of the website. If you don’t see something for your vehicle let us know, we probably already have it but haven’t posted it yet. No matter what, we can work to create a package just for you. 

No. You should only tune a vehicle when you have no warning lights on the dash of any kind; the vehicle should be running and driving perfectly when it arrives to the shop. Our busy dyno and tuning schedule does not leave room for us to do general maintenance or repairs. 

About Reflash Tunes

The reflash tunes are for popular American domestic vehicles. We have a reflash tune already made for nearly every V8 powered gas or diesel car and truck made by Ford, GM, or Mopar/Stellantis. We have wide coverage on reflash tunes for 4- and 6-cylinder vehicles as well. They all come with a 14-day money back guarantee. If you’re not happy we flash your vehicle back to stock and refund your purchase. 

We can install these reflash tunes in a few hours as long as your vehicle is running well when it arrives. We save time (and you save money) because these tunes are already made, so we don’t need to drive the vehicle and collect data logs. This is the perfect choice if you are stock or only have mods like a cat-back exhaust system or cold intake air system.

About Stage 1 Tunes

The Stage 1 tune service is going to apply to domestic vehicles that have reached the FBO (full bolt on) stage and is the starting point for all European and Asian vehicles. Euro and Asian vehicles are much harder to tune than American domestic vehicles and require very expensive hardware and software for tuning.

Domestic vehicles need the Stage 1 service when they reach the “full bolt on” level. This means long tube headers, cat-back exhaust, cold air intake, upgraded intake manifold, and possibly larger fuel injectors.

All Stage 1 tuned vehicles are road tested with extensive data logs collected before and after the tune is installed to ensure everything is working safely optimally.

We have to DRIVE the vehicle, so everything needs to work and be safe. It needs to have tires with decent tread, an alignment, an exhaust, functioning brakes, blinkers, horn, a new battery that’s charged, s steering wheel, a seat, you know, all the stuff that makes a vehicle work and be safe.

Fill the tank with whatever octane gas you plan to use. We always recommend 93 octane for the most power; we can tune for 89 and 87, however the gains will be smaller.

No matter the stage, any vehicle getting a tune should be running and driving perfectly with no warning lights on the dash. A tune can’t fix mechanical problems. If you have warning lights, or if your vehicle is not running well, you will need to make repairs to your vehicle first, then bring it for a tune.

Every Reflash and Stage 1 tune we provide has been developed on the dyno and tested on the street. Most have been developed in-house; some have been developed by one of our partners like SCT, Westers Garage, Alientech, or from a large file service like dyno-chiptuningfiles.

Either way the Reflash and Stage 1 tune is perfectly calibrated to your stock or nearly stock vehicle. Each file receives extensive testing in stop and go, highway, cruise, and wide-open throttle conditions. For the Reflash tunes the work has already been done and tested on thousands of vehicles just like yours. Expect more power, torque, improved sex life, more smiles, better throttle response, and better highway fuel economy.

Stage 2 and above are completely custom to your vehicle and your goals. We tune with wideband O2 sensors and stand-alone engine knock monitors to deliver the best possible outcome of power, safety, sound, reliability, and drivability.

For stage 2 and above we start with a “base” calibration and modify it through hours of testing on the dyno and in the street. We test your vehicle in real world driving conditions. The excitement of a big HP number doesn’t last when the vehicle dies at every stop light and won’t start in the morning when it is cold. We work very hard to make sure all parts of the tune (like startup and sitting at a redlight) work together. Our goal with Stage 2 tune files is to calibrate the vehicle so the “little things” work like a stock vehicle. This means yes, you can have the big cam chop, but the vehicle still starts easily when cold or hot, transitions smoothly when coming into or off of the throttle, idles reliably, and does not stall at a red light, in the driveway, or when driving through a parking lot.